Monday, December 17, 2012

Tips from a Makeup Artist


You probably didn’t know this, but in my previous career I was a Makeup Artist.  For 12 years, I had a glamorous (well, not so glam when you are opening 100 boxes of stock in the back room, or taking inventory counts, etc.) job of working for one of the nation’s top specialty stores (Nordys) for makeup brands Lancôme and Clinique (4 years each) and then worked in Downtown Seattle at the premier Salon Spa where I helped clients by custom creating/blending/mixing everything from foundations, concealers and powders to lip glosses and lipsticks.  I loved being in the beauty industry—working with colors and pigments has always come naturally to me, and I absolutely adored helping women learn how to enhance their personal beauty and seeing the transformations that followed.  When I was “in the zone” with one of my clients, only an earthquake could interrupt our fun and learning (um, actually that did happen once---with the Nisqually Quake in 2001, a 7.1 on the Richter scale!) so focused was I on meeting their needs.

Then, at the age of 35 I got pregnant—my husband and I were thrilled!  I was fortunate to have a rather easy pregnancy and worked on my feet until month 8, when I then went on leave of absence.  That was 10 years ago, and that was the last time that I officially worked as a Makeup Artist.  I have since branched out into other interests (mostly interior deco), but Cosmetics will always be an easy language for me.  And no, I don’t look at every woman I see and want to “fix” her.  Unless it is egregious on the order of Tammy Faye Bakker (Messner) or something…in which case, I think almost anyone would want to give a little helpful advice along with a wash cloth.

What I have noticed, though, is the resurgence of the so-called “Mass” brands.  This is industry speak for cosmetic and skincare brands that are given Mass distribution, as opposed to specialty or 'Prestige' brands that are only available in boutiques and department stores.  In the past, the quality was the biggest difference, with the Mass brands having much less to offer in the areas of pigment selection and “pay-off” (“pay-off” is the amount of product that is used to get the desired effect), as well as efficacy (the ease of use & wear).  Plus, in the department store there were lovely helpers to guide you to your most beautiful self (me, in a past life)…but then something happened…the Mass brands woke up and figured out that they needed to step up their game.  The underlying secret power of the Mass brands, was that they were usually much larger companies, and could bring to bear a lot more resources to research, development and sourcing of ingredients.  And so they did.  Mass brands realized that consumers would pay a little more, if in exchange they had access to better quality products with a wider range of attractive colors and targeted uses.  I no longer felt like I had to shop the “expensive” lines to find good quality products that fit my needs.  No more $26 mascara for me.

So, from time to time, I will share with you readers my latest “finds” on the cosmetic and skincare front.  I am not an expert with a PHD in chemistry, or a licensed aesthetician, so I will not pretend to be one—however, I am a fairly knowledgeable consumer with a deep background in cosmetic sales. 

Currently, these are the “Mass” products that I use on a regular basis:  (over the years, I have found replacements for nearly all of the ‘prestige’ brands that I used to represent)

·         L’Oreal:  Lipsticks, Eyeshadows (especially from the HiP line), Lipliners, Nail Polish

·         Sonia Kashuk (private label line at Target):  Lipgloss, Concealer, Brushes & Tools, Brow Pencil

·         Revlon:  Foundation (PhotoReady), Concealer (Colorstay), Camouflage for blemishes (Colorstay), Face Powders (PhotoReady & Colorstay), Colorstay Eyeliners, Colorstay Lipliners, Nail Polish

·         CoverGirl:  Mascara (Lashblast Volume…orange packaging in Very Black)

·         Maybelline:  Lipstick (Colorsensational; Pink Quartz is particularly nice for cool blondes or for layering onto deeper shades to soften them.  I have many other colors too.)

·         Garnier:  BB Cream in Fair (I mix this with the Revlon PhotoReady in lightest shade…then I have the exact color I need)

·         Other products of note:  Bronzer/Contour Powder (a brand I found in Germany, but have not seen in the states…my runner up is Lancôme’s Star Bronzer), Blusher (cream stick which has been discontinued…so I am searching for a replacement that has a creamy/powdery texture and not a neon color…will keep you posted or would love any suggestions.)

Just a couple of days ago, I found a wonderful new brand (which is crazy cheap) and has OK packaging, nice colors and good “pay-off”….it is called Essence.  The parent company is in Germany (did you know that Germany is a powerhouse in color cosmetics production?  Check out nearly all of your eyeliners and lipliners for confirmation!) and was started about 10 years ago.  I first spied it in the states a couple of years ago when I bought some trendy fingernail polishes (lime green, orange, yellow etc) for 99cents and was hooked on those for my home pedicures…they wore great and who could complain at the price?! 

So when I was shopping at my local store (Fred Meyer for those in the Northwest) a couple of days ago, I was intrigued because I was looking in ALL the lines for a matte taupe/grey color to use as eyebrow powder filler (this is often a softer and less harsh option than a pencil, for making eyebrows look more uniform)…but came up empty until I saw this set from Essence:  Over the Taupe, a quad set of eyeshadows.  Now, I am a natural dark blonde with a tendency to mousy (so, of course, I highlight to blondish) and finding a light taupe-y brown brow color that does not look orange-y or yellow-ish is harder than you would think.  Nothing looks more artificial on a highlighted blonde than eyebrows that look like they are for a ginger or brunette.  At any rate, I was correct that the color in the top right hand (on the photo I have taken) of the set of four is practically perfect…there is a teensy bit of shimmer, but not enough to make a problem at all!  Use an angled stiff brush and stroke this color following the direction of the hair growth (toward the temples) to fill in any sparse areas and just generally make the brows show up more.  The “no-brow” look (or more accurately, the “bleached-brow” look) has been very popular (model Lara Stone, I am looking at you girlfriend) of late for editorial spreads (in fashion magazines), but this is a beyond-challenging look for mere mortal women because it makes you look like an alien from outer space.  Check out photos of yourself….if your lashline (eyeliner and mascara zone) shows up more noticeably than your browline, you probably need to help your brows out with a little more color---they are the frame to your eyes, and thusly, the frame to your face…trust a Makeup Artist, for heaven’s sakes!  BTW, this quad is also fantastic used as a eyeshadow set (the lightest goes on your browbone, the shimmer taupe in the lower left corner is a nice crease color, and the darkest shade makes a nice powder eyeliner.)

For fun and giggles, I also splurged on an eyeliner (Taupe 22) and shimmery single shadow (Back to Khaki, metallic effect) for $1.99 each.  They were both keepers too!  (Note:  I have sensitive skin which sometimes reacts badly to eyeshadows…but no redness or itching this time….plus I wear contacts, and there were no problems with that either!)  As I need (or want) new color items, I think I will keep experimenting with more items from this line…goodness knows the superlow price points mean I can make mistakes and still come out ahead!  (And no, they don't give away free stuff to bloggers who plug their line....it's just me, sharing the knowledge-love to help make the world a little more beautiful, on the cheap.)

That’s it for today….(I might need to find a better sign-off....)

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