Tips from a Makeup Artist: Eye Makeup for Parties & Beyond

You have a party to go to tonight…you found a festive sweater, velvet slacks, sparkly shoes….but when it comes time to dress you face (eyes), do you know how to step it up?

Let me help you out with that!

Prep:

First off--before you even start out with your application--make sure that your delicate eye area is ready to go.  Remove any traces of old makeup (Neutrogena makes a really nice oil-free eye makeup remover that powers through even waterproof liners and mascaras….use it with a round flat cotton pad), rinse with warm water and pat gently a small amount of light/medium weight eye cream on the area.  Wait for a minute or so, and if there is any residue from the eye cream still left, then blot it lightly with a tissue.

 

Fix-It-First Notes:

If you often find your eyeshadow and/or eyeliner is getting creased up during the daytime, we need to figure out why…and fix it.  This is most likely happening because we are “building a house on sand”…or oil, more accurately.  The texture of the skin has to be soft like a rose petal--not oily, and not flakey—for makeup to properly be applied and stay on through the day/night.  If this oiliness is happening because you are applying a heavy eye cream, you will need to switch that heavy one for bedtime use…and use a more light/medium weight cream that absorbs without leaving a greasy surface pre-makeup. 

If you don’t use anything, and your eyelids still get oily all by themselves…you will need to take some measures to keep this from lifting and shifting your eye makeup.  Blotting the eyelids with a tissue, and then applying an eyeshadow “base” or primer will probably be the answer for you.  Several companies make them, and should really help you out.  Oil-free foundation and powder can suffice if you don’t have any eyelid primer.

If you are too dry (and flakey), on the other hand, then powdery products (like eyeshadow) have a hard time adhering to that kind of surface; you should use a medium weight eye cream to help keep the surface soft and ready to accept makeup…let it absorb, then continue with the color application. 

 

About Eye Creams:  You must use a product that is rated for use around the eye area…it will say “Ophthalmologist Tested”…regular moisturizer is not usually rated for the zone inside of the ocular bone ridge.  Eye creams are so small because you use very little for each application, but they are worth the price because they keep the crinkles at bay.  This is one area that I spend more $$ on because I am picky about the texture.  Currently, I am using a product from Dr. Hauschka called “Eye Contour Day Balm”, but I have always like Lancôme’s eye products as well.

If you have sensitivity to certain pigments or minerals in eyeshadow (and get a red & itchy reaction), then using a skin-toned eyelid primer can also really help because it provides a buffer/barrier between your skin and the shadow…which should reduce your sensitivity to it for short periods of time (pink & purple pigments, and metallic [gold, copper, silver] shimmers tend to be the usual culprits in causing allergic reactions…stick with more matte shadows that are grey, cream and beige and you should notice these don’t cause as much problems). 

 

Now back to your scheduled programming…

Apply a light layer of eye concealer (make sure it is NOT a camouflage product for blemishes, as these often contain ingredients that treat the zit and would be very drying and irritating to the delicate eye skin, not to mention the actual membranes of the eye) with your fingertip (clean hands, please) or a concealer brush (these are made with non-absorbent nylon fibers, and are usually flat-ish in shape).  Yes, apply this concealer to the lid as well as the undereye area.  You will really be surprised as it helps with darkness/redness and allows your eyes to look brighter and well-rested.  “Set” the concealer with a SHEER layer of skin-colored translucent face powder.  This is best done with a soft flat powder sponge…I like using a compacted powder more than a loose powder---too messy all over the place, in my experience.  If you think your concealer itself has left your skin with a sticky feeling, then blot with a tissue before you apply the powder or you risk getting a very heavy layer of powder adhering.

Now you are prepped and ready to apply your color!

 

Eyeshadow Techniques:

Find 3 colors your like (that either coordinate with your outfit or with each other color), and classify them into three categories:  lighter than your skin (Light); close to the same color as your skin, but slightly darker (Medium); and much darker than your skin (Dark).

Take the Medium one and apply it with a brush to the crease area (when you tip your head back and look straight ahead into the mirror, you will see what the natural “crease” area is for your eye…this is the indented area that is created at the top of the round part of the eyeball) from the outer zone to about  2/3 of the way towards your nose.  Note:  wherever you touch the color-loaded brush first to your skin, is where that color will be applied the darkest…so think about starting in the middle and then brush it back and forth farther and farther to blend.

Then wipe your brush off very well on a tissue or use a fresh clean brush, and brush the Light color on the browbone in the space above the medium color you just applied, and your actual brow hair.  Blend back and forth to soften.

Now you need to decide if you want a “smoky” look (that is where the eyeshadow gets darker the closer you get to the eyeliner or if you want a “brightening” effect. 

For the “brightening” effect, simply take the Light color across the lid under the crease where you applied the Medium color. The lid area is the area that is roundish because of the eyeball underneath the skin.  Then take a small amount of the Dark shadow, and pat it on the outer lid area shown on the picture diagram.  A little goes a long ways, and don’t extend it past the outer zone unless you want to look like Liz Taylor in Cleopatra.  This look is called the “brightening” effect, because when you  blink the color on the lid is giving a little flash of lightness.  For extra zing, you can now place a very metallic shade (silver, gold etc) on top of the lid’s Light color…or go for a vivid pop of color there….just pat them on and then see the “flash” every time you blink!

For the “smoky” effect, take the Medium color across the lower lid area so that you have the Medium color all the way from your lashline to your crease.  If this is “smoky” and dark enough for you, then stop with the eyeshadow and go on to the eyeliner section.  If you want it more dramatic, then layer some of the Dark color across the lid on top of the Medium that you just applied.  I often find it helpful to “place” or pat the color on lightly before I start to blend it…it adheres better that way (use the flat side of the makeup brush for this “patting” technique).  For a true “smoky” effect, you will need to drag some of the dark shadow underneath the eye as well, darker at the outer eye area.  Be careful, and have q-tips handy in case it veers too far into raccoon territory.

Now you are ready for eyeliner!

 

Shadow Liner:

This is the softest possible look for an eyeliner.  It is achieved with a Very Dark shadow applied to the lashline with a dry angled stiff brush.  This look might not be strong enough for your party look, but it is a nice alternative for someone who usually doesn’t wear any eyeliner on a regular basis.  Rub the brush lightly in the Dark shadow to pick it up on the very end, then with your eye closed completely to keep the dust out of the eye, place “pat” it along the lashline from inside to out.  Layer it again darker, if you wish.  This will be a very soft option, and will not have a long lasting all-day effect.  You can do this under the eye, if you wish to make the lower lashes appear to be thicker as well.

Pencil Liner:

A pencil liner is the most popular kind of technique. The pencil eyeliner will work best if there is no gap between the top edge of lashes and the line….dot it on to start, if that helps you get it closer to the base of the lashes…then connect the dots together.  You should not need to pull the eye skin taut to achieve this technique.  If your eyeliner is too dry to give you color, then you can warm the tip in your fingertips, re-sharpen it or just replace it with a better eyeliner.  If you have noticed in the past that the liner you use is getting wiped off easily or smearing during the day, then try setting it with the above shadow liner technique…the powder will give the pencil the staying power it doesn’t have on it’s own.  You could also jazz up a boring pencil color by “setting” it with a more colorful/vivid shadow!  But for a quick & long-lasting pencil-only application, this is why I like the Revlon Colorstay liners:  they are easily blendable, then they “set” all by themselves after about a minute….you have about a minute to get them blended the way you want, then by the time the mascara is dried, so is the eyeliner...easy peasy + no sharpening mess!  You can use a little of the pencil under your eyes as well, to make those lashes look thicker before the mascara.  Do about half as strong as you would do on the top (or use a lighter color pencil), concentrating on the outer areas more than the inner (generally makes the eyes look more wide-set and larger).

Wet Liner: 

Is the most dramatic effect, but requires a very steady hand, good vision and some practice.  If you are using a liquid (or a dark shadow with a wet fine liner brush), then try to hold it lightly like a pen and drag it sideways while laying it on the base of the lashes.  Try to do several small sketches rather than one perfect single line…this might help with control so that you don’t have a bumpy wavy line….to do the outer “upwards flick” area of the wet line, you will do best to go OUT to IN…that way you have some control over the outer point—if you are attempting that look.  Please do not do any wet liner under the eye on the lower lashline.  It is too dramatic a look to pull off unless you are on the stage….use a pencil, or the shadow liner technique for beefing up the lower lashline instead.

 

Mascara:

Finish with mascara.  Consider going with the darkest black one in the formula that you like, if this is a nighttime event.  I don’t usually recommend waterproof unless you know that your eyes are wet (with tears that spill over) regularly and that messes up your makeup.  Most formulas these days are quite long-wearing.  If you like to curl your lashes with a curler, then do that before your mascara or you will find your lashes sticking to the curler.  I like to wait about 2-3 minutes after my final mascara layer, then take the sides of my index fingers and gently bend my upper lashes while my eyes are closed…being careful not to bend so far that the lashes touch my eyelids and leave mascara marks on my perfected eyeshadows!

 

Check that both eyes are even, clean up any leftovers that might have fallen to your cheeks, give yourself a wink in the mirror and then Go Get ‘Em Tiger! 

Have a fun and safe time at your Holiday Party!!

 

P.S.  Send me some makeup questions, and I will post answers!!